Kumshet to Thakarwadi

The Kumshet plateau is large, with settlements on every side. The route leaves the village of Kumshet through open scrub, climbs gradually into open forest, and approaches the rock faces of Wakadi Dongar.

One small ledge has to be crossed — there are rock-cut steps here. Above it, a lightly used trail switchbacks onto the ridgeline, which carries a series of small peaks. Expect to bend under thick cover through this segment. The trail is always visible on the ground even where the canopy closes in.

The trail contours up through forest to the saddle between Muda (west) and Gawaldev (east). From the saddle, hold the contouring trail that runs along the base of Gawaldev's north face.

Gawaldev translates to the god worshipped by shepherds. Gawali is a community involved in cattle rearing and the milk trade, and a Gawaldev is typically a local deity that protects Gawali people and their livestock.

The contour opens onto a flat plateau. From here you can see the Bhandardara reservoir and, below you, the village of Koltembe.

This is the crux of the stage, and it is a navigation challenge rather than a physical one.

The plateau drops steeply on every side. The descent is via Lagachi Vaat, accessed by an iron ladder — and because you are standing on top of the plateau, you cannot see the ladder from above. The contouring trail continues past the exit; if you keep following it, you will circumnavigate Gawaldev and end up in circles.

There is patchy network on the plateau.

Once you are on the ladder, it is a single trail all the way down to Koltembe. The descent is steep, but the trail is good. No technical equipment is needed, but trekking poles are worth carrying. The line sticks to the nose of the ridge and runs continuously down to the village.

From Koltembe the route heads east onto a second ridgeline — the one east of your descent — aiming to cross an unnamed saddle and regain the main ridge.

This trail is in regular local use and is well paved. It climbs to the saddle just south-west of the peak called Sindola. One section has rock-cut steps set into the rock. There is a small shrine on the saddle.

From the saddle, the trail drops steeply to Devichiwadi down a rock slab with steps cut into it. No rope is needed — you can sit and work your way down — but this is the leg that closes the stage in monsoon.

The trail crosses a few farmlands from Devichiwadi to the larger settlement of Shirpunje Budruk.

A wide constructed path runs from Shirpunje Budruk to Bhairavgad — long iron ladders and large steps, built out because the temple is popular.

At the top of the climb, head south to the saddle between Bhairavgad and the mountain to its west. The summit is an out-and-back from this saddle.

On top there is a cave and a temple. You can shelter here: there is electricity to charge devices, and it is comfortable enough to sleep in if required. There is no water source on top.

Return from the summit to the saddle and take the ridgeline west. This is the main offshoot ridge of the north–south spine.

Shepherd trails cross this whole section. Hold the overall westward direction rather than any single trail. Orange ribbons are tied along the route and will confirm the line.

The route contours at the base of the Ghanchakkar peak and then contours around Gawaldev's south face at a lower level, returning to the junction near the saddle where you originally turned north for Koltembe. This time stay on the centre of the ridgeline and continue west past Muda to the Katrabai saddle.

Like Bhairavgad, Katrabai is an out-and-back. There is a small temple at the saddle. From there the trail climbs to Katrabai, which is a large flat-topped plateau.

The small peaks through this whole day function as vantage points — the views are the reason to walk the ridge rather than the valley.

From Katrabai, return to the saddle between Katrabai and Muda. A prominent trail runs down the gully from here, heading south back onto the Kumshet plateau.

Rather than walking all the way back into Kumshet village, take shelter at Thakarwadi, which ends the stage.